The Wines

Ákos: A heterogeneous vintage, those who worked well in the vineyards and kept the mildew at bay made great wines, sadly many others missed it completely.

Ákos’ Conclusion

I prefer 2023 to 2022 (I also prefer 2021 to 2022)

Why? Because 2023 is a terroir-driven vintage, with a great tannin and acidity structure that is balanced out by elegant fruits and all the great wines have an exceptionally long finish. 2022 was a hot vintage with exuberant fruit and very (almost too) soft tannin structure.

Ageing potential: this wine will age well and long. It a beautiful classic Bordeaux vintage. What does this mean? Well, it is in the style of the 90s with elegant tannins and great freshness, but with more fruit maturity.

Comparable vintage: 2001. The comparison between 2022 and 2023 is that of 2000 and 2001. We in the wine industry all prefer 2001. The media obviously had to hype up 2000 because it was the vintage of the Millennium.

Chateau owners attitude

It is a topic worth elaborating on. I haven’t seen them so nice (maybe humble in some cases) and welcoming in a very long time. The message from all of us in the trade seems to have been finally received: lower your prices or we won’t buy anything!

What to expect from the upcoming campaign?

The campaign will start very fast with Chateau Lafite Rothschild expected to set the tone with its release on the 2nd of May. They want to set the tone like they did with the 2019 vintage during Covid and it worked. It will be followed by Chateau Mouton Rothschild on the 6th of May, Chateau Cheval Blanc the 13th and Haut Brion on the 14th of May.

Prices

I expect the prices to be 30%+ lower than 2022s and, if my predictions are correct, these wines will be worth buying. Prices will be around the 2019s release levels. Or at least this is what we are all expecting.

Why? It is simple economics. In 2023 yields were larger than in 2019, 2020, or 2021 for most Grand Cru Classé estates, therefore the production costs are lower.  However given the global economic climate and the state of the fine wine market, the need to sell is much higher.

Will the 2023 increase in value?

If my release price prediction is right, then in my opinion undoubtedly so, just like the 2019s did. This fine wine market lull won’t last forever. In any event these will be great and early drinking wines with ageing potential.

Will all the chateaux adhere to this pricing philosophy?

I don’t think so and here are the ones that I expect to go against the trend:

• Smith Haut-Lafitte (King Charles went there and they will have a special label)
• Angelus
• Delon wines – Leoville Las Cases/Nenin/Clos du Marquis
• Figeac
• Conseillante

Why? Ego. I hope I am wrong.

Biggest misses for me

In general a lot of St Emilion and Pomerol estates didn’t make good wines – general comment was that they all had citrusy finish… if I want that then I will drink Riesling.

More specifically:

• Haut-Bailly
• Ducru-Beaucaillou
• Figeac
• Smith Haut-Lafitte
• Calon Segur (I was expecting a lot more)
• Cos d’Estournel (I was expecting a lot more)
• Las Cases
• Pape Clément red and white (to make a not excellent white in 2023 took some effort!)
• Troplong Mondot – Burgundian whole cluster style wine … in Bordeaux? This might change with ageing though.

Greatest successes

All the First Growths have made good wine across the board of all their satellite chateaux (Clerc Million, D’Armailhac, Petit Mouton, etc).  As always Latour will not be released.

• Petrus
• Cheval Blanc
• Vieux Château Certan
• Mission Haut-Brion red and white
• Palmer and Alter Ego (they are at the First Growth level now)
• Montrose – the best I have tried so far – they made the wine from their best parcel “Terasse 4” and it showed!
• Domaine de Chevalier Blanc
• Chateau Canon
• Ausone
• Pontet-Canet
• Carmes Haut-Brion (whole cluster vinification since decades, but well managed and the result is a well-balanced lively wine)

A special mention goes to Philippe de Lur Saluces because 2023 was his first vintage alone after his father’s passing and he made an amazing wine at Chateau de Fargues, but like Latour, it won’t be sold En-Primeur.

Should you be interested in securing en primeur wines through Top Selection please email info@topselection.co.uk