Producer Spotlight: Calera
Nestled high in the Gabilan Mountains of California’s Central Coast, Calera stands as a beacon of winemaking excellence, rooted in a rich history and a relentless pursuit of quality. Founded by the visionary Josh Jensen in 1974, Calera, which translates to “limekiln” in Spanish, draws its name from the 19th-century limekiln found on its property. This historical marker symbolizes the limestone-rich soils that Jensen believed were essential for cultivating world-class Pinot Noir and Chardonnay.
The Visionary: Josh Jensen
Josh Jensen’s journey into winemaking began in the vineyards of Domaine de la Romanée-Conti and Domaine Dujac in Burgundy, France, where he was inspired by the limestone soils that produced some of the world’s finest wines. With a degree in anthropology from Yale and a background in European history from Oxford, Jensen’s academic pursuits took an unexpected turn when he fell in love with the art of winemaking in Burgundy. This passion was driven by a desire to recreate the magic of Burgundy’s terroir in California, which led him on a quest for the perfect vineyard site.
Returning to California, Jensen sought similar soils, leading him to the remote, limestone-laden slopes of Mt. Harlan. Despite scepticism from contemporaries who doubted the viability of viticulture in such an isolated and rugged location, Jensen’s passion and determination led to the planting of Calera’s first 24 acres of Pinot Noir in 1975. His pioneering spirit not only defined the character of Calera but also paved the way for the recognition of unique terroirs in California.
Mt. Harlan: A Unique Terroir
Calera’s vineyards are perched at elevations between 2,200 and 2,500 feet, making it one of California’s highest and coolest wine-growing regions. The limestone-rich soils and the cool marine air sweeping in from the Pacific Ocean create an environment ideal for producing Pinot Noir and Chardonnay with exceptional depth, minerality, and complexity. This unique terroir led to the establishment of the Mt. Harlan AVA in 1990, a testament to the distinctiveness of Calera’s vineyards.
The isolation and altitude of Mt. Harlan contribute to its unique microclimate, characterized by warm days and cool nights, which is crucial for the slow, even ripening of grapes. This climate allows for the development of complex flavours while retaining the bright acidity that is a hallmark of Calera’s wines. The limestone soils impart a distinctive mineral quality, adding layers of depth and elegance to the wines, and making them stand out in the crowded landscape of New World Pinot Noir and Chardonnay.
The Vineyards
Calera’s Mt. Harlan estate is home to several celebrated vineyards, each contributing unique characteristics to the wines:
• Jensen Vineyard: The flagship vineyard, known for its varied exposures and limestone outcroppings, produces wines of great complexity and ageing potential. Named after the founder, it symbolizes Jensen’s relentless pursuit of excellence and his deep connection to the land.
• Reed Vineyard: The smallest and latest ripening, known for its exotic flavour profile. Despite its size, the vineyard’s distinct character adds a unique dimension to Calera’s portfolio.
• Selleck Vineyard: Positioned below a large limestone deposit, it yields wines of remarkable depth and complexity. This vineyard is a favourite among collectors for its consistent quality and profound expression of terroir.
• Mills Vineyard: Southeast-facing and planted with original Pinot Noir material, known for its balanced and nuanced wines. It’s a testament to the enduring legacy of Calera’s early days, producing wines that are both elegant and robust.
• de Villiers Vineyard: Planted in 1997, it produces a distinctive dark-fruit expression of Pinot Noir. The vineyard’s younger vines offer a fresh perspective on the classic Mt. Harlan terroir.
• Ryan Vineyard: The youngest vineyard, located at the highest elevation, it produces wines with robust tannins and layered flavours. Named after Jensen’s son, it represents the future of Calera, continuing the tradition of excellence.
Winemaking Philosophy
Calera’s winemaking approach is deeply influenced by Burgundy traditions, emphasizing minimal intervention and allowing the unique terroir to shine through. The multi-level, gravity-flow winery, an innovative design by Jensen, ensures gentle handling of the grapes, preserving their delicate flavours and aromas. This method reduces the need for pumps, which can damage the fruit and affect the wine’s quality. Instead, gravity is used to move the wine through the various stages of production, maintaining the integrity and purity of the fruit.
Winemaker Mike Waller, who joined Calera in 2007, continues Jensen’s legacy, crafting wines that are elegant, balanced, and age-worthy. Waller’s approach combines traditional techniques with modern innovations, ensuring that each bottle of Calera wine is a true expression of its terroir. His meticulous attention to detail and commitment to quality have helped maintain Calera’s reputation as one of America’s premier wineries.
Whole Cluster Fermentation: A Signature Technique
One of the defining features of Calera’s winemaking process is the use of whole-cluster fermentation. This traditional yet distinctive technique involves fermenting entire grape clusters, including the stems. This method imparts a unique set of complexities and nuances to the wine, introducing subtle herbaceous tones, increased tannic structure, and deeper layers of aromatics. By incorporating the stems, Calera achieves a more intricate and layered flavour profile, enhancing the overall character of the wine.
The decision to use whole cluster fermentation at Calera (typically between 30-40% whole bunches) was driven by a desire to create wines that express the purest essence of their terroir, with the structure and complexity to age gracefully. This technique is particularly well-suited to Pinot Noir, Burgundy’s cornerstone varietal, and has enabled Calera to highlight the elegant, floral, and earthy qualities inherent in the region’s terroir. The adoption of whole cluster fermentation has been pivotal in the Domaine’s evolution towards producing more refined wines, characterized by brighter acidity and more pronounced minerality.
Acclaim and Legacy
Over the years, Calera has garnered critical acclaim, with numerous wines receiving 95+ scores from prestigious publications. The winery’s commitment to excellence has earned it a place among America’s most respected vintners, and its wines are celebrated for their layered elegance and remarkable ageing potential. Calera’s story is one of vision, perseverance, and an unwavering dedication to producing wines that reflect the unique terroir of Mt. Harlan. Whether you’re enjoying a bottle of their acclaimed Pinot Noir or their beautifully aromatic Chardonnay, you’re tasting the legacy of a true pioneer in American winemaking.
Josh Jensen’s contributions to the wine industry have been recognized globally, cementing his legacy as a trailblazer who dared to challenge conventional wisdom and succeeded in creating world-class wines in an unlikely location. His passion for limestone soils and dedication to quality have inspired countless winemakers to explore and embrace the unique terroirs of California.
Explore Calera with Top Selection
Exploring the wines of Calera offers an opportunity to appreciate their remarkable depth and complexity, deeply rooted in Burgundian tradition. These wines stand out for their purity, finesse, and connection to their terroir, providing a unique and rewarding experience for wine enthusiasts. As you delve into the wines of Calera, you’re not just tasting exceptional wine; you’re experiencing the culmination of Josh Jensen’s vision and passion, brought to life through meticulous craftsmanship and an unwavering dedication to quality. Join us in celebrating Calera, a true icon in the world of fine wine. Cheers!
